A shower is the hardest-working surface in a bathroom. It gets wet every day, it gets cleaned with real products, and it hides its most important work — waterproofing — behind the tile. So when homeowners ask us how to choose shower tile, we start with the three things that decide whether it still looks good in five years: grout, size, and slip ratings.
Grout: the part everyone underestimates
Grout is not just the line between tiles — in a shower it is a working joint. Cement grout is the standard choice and works well when it is sealed and maintained; epoxy grout costs more up front but resists staining and moisture far better, which is why we often recommend it for shower floors and niches, where water sits longest.
Two practical rules: darker grout hides everyday wear better than white in a shower, and wider grout lines need more upkeep than tight ones. Whatever grout you choose, ask how it will be sealed and how often it needs resealing — that answer matters more than the brand name on the bag.
Tile size: bigger is not always better in a shower
Large-format tile looks clean on a shower wall — fewer grout lines, a calmer surface. On a shower floor, though, large tiles are harder to slope toward the drain and can feel slippery underfoot, because there is less grout to grip. That is why shower floors so often use smaller tile or mosaic: the extra grout lines give traction and let the floor follow the slope properly.
For the walls, large-format tile, subway tile and mosaic all work — the choice is mostly about the look you want and how the tile meets the niche, the bench and the shower curb. For the floor, favour grip and drainage over drama.
Slip ratings: read the number, not the finish
Tile that looks matte is not automatically slip-resistant, and tile that looks glossy is not automatically dangerous — the rating is what counts. Look for the tile's slip-resistance rating (often shown as a DCOF value or a slip rating on the product sheet) and make sure the tile you pick for the floor is rated for wet areas. A tile rated for a dry wall is not a shower-floor tile, however good it looks in the sample.
If you are planning a walk-in shower or a curbless shower entry, this matters even more: there is no tub edge to catch you, so the floor tile has to do the work.
What sits behind the tile matters most
The tile is the finish; the shower is the system. Shower waterproofing — the membrane behind the tile, the way the niche and bench are sealed, the drain detail — is what stops water getting into the wall. A beautiful custom tile shower with poor waterproofing fails quietly for years before it shows. When you compare quotes, ask what waterproofing system is included and how the shower pan is built. It is the least visible part of the job and the most expensive to fix later.
A short checklist before you buy tile
Floor tile: rated for wet areas, small enough to slope to the drain, with enough grout for grip.
Wall tile: the look you want — large-format, subway or mosaic — checked against the niche and fixture layout.
Grout: epoxy for the floor and niche if the budget allows; sealed cement grout otherwise, with a resealing plan.
Waterproofing: confirmed in writing before tiling starts, not assumed.
Samples at home: check the tile in your bathroom's actual light, wet, before committing — showroom lighting lies.
How to start
If you are planning a bathroom remodel, a tub-to-shower conversion or a tile-only refresh in New Jersey or Westchester County, the next step is simple: request a free quote. Tell us what you need done, when you would like to start, and how you would like us to reach you — call, text, or email. We will take a look and give you an honest estimate.
3sixty Renovate — bathroom remodeling, flooring installation, and tiling across New Jersey and Westchester County, NY. 20+ years of experience. info@3sixtyrenovate.com
